The very prodigal Italian guide 50 Top Italy (first at the origin of the ranking of the best pizzerias in the world) has just presented its 2024 list of the best Italian restaurants in the world located outside the Boot.
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The first iteration of this international ranking, in 2019, saw the triumph of a chef based in Paris, near the Aligre market, Giovanni Passerini. Four years later, the Romain is in 49th place, alongside five other French addresses, all located in Paris: Maison Ruggieri, a gastronomic restaurant opened last year by Martino Ruggieri (48th), Cucina Mutualité by Alain Ducasse (46th), Tosca (27th), the Caffè Stern by the Alajmo brothers (20th) and Le Carpaccio at the Royal Monceau (1st). A Monegasque restaurant, La Table d'Antonio Salvatore, is also in a good position in the ranking (22nd).
Olivier Piras and Alessandra Del Favero in the Carpaccio room. Roméo Balancourt
The winner of the top 50, Le Carpaccio, located in the Royal Monceau palace designed by Philippe Starck (8th arrondissement), has recently been bullied by a duo, in the city as well as in the kitchen, Alessandra Del Favero and Olivier Piras. The two thirty-year-old chefs, originally from Veneto (for her) and Sardinia (for him), met in 2012 at the three-star restaurant Da Vittorio in Brusaporto (Lombardy). After creating their restaurant Aga, in the family hotel in the Dolomites, they joined the Royal Monceau in October 2021, in partnership with the Cerea de Da Vittorio family. A recovery crowned in March 2022 with a first Michelin star.
In menus (€70 for lunch for 2 courses, €175 for 6 courses) or à la carte, the Carpaccio showcases specialties from all over the Boot in a creative, contemporary and gourmet interpretation, just like its "signature" dishes: beef carpaccio, Caesar sauce, crispy amaranth and truffle, Milanese-style veal chop ("elephant ear") and paccheri à la Da Vittorio (tomato sauce).
The rest of the podium was occupied by Massimo Bottura's Gucci Osteria in Tokyo in second and Don Alfonso in Toronto in third.
The ranking was presented at a "Grand Gala of Italian Cuisine" at the San Babila Theatre in Milan, where special prizes were also distributed in Italy.